[WM] Painting Orcs the fast way (using Army Painter)

[Jimmy Zimms]

right checked there site and i'm quite lost could i have a link or something?

tutorial video

[Mr Grey]

thx

[Jo]

On the site you will notice two possible techniques for using the quickwash - dipping and the 'splash-on' technique which is basically using a brush to apply the wash. The dipping technique is good for 28mm models and your occasional giant but for warmaster I use the splash-on technique.

My order for their regular ink should be arriving any day now, I have a unit of Ogres and a unit of Trolls waiting for a regular wash attempt, I'll post some pics once they're done.

Good luck!

Jo

[David Wasilewski]

Personally, I have always painted army dip on with a brush, rather than actually dipping it. It enables more control over where the dip goes (I typically avoid putting the dip on metal armour/weapons etc unless it's chaos/skaven etc i.e. rusty armour).

Dave

[Toon]

The miniatures look really nice.

Is there any chance we could get some close ups?

[jchaos79]

The video helps me a lot. I now I have no doubt I have to get some and make a test!

Thanks pal

[Mr Grey]

Right I read the pdf on there site and was wondering how you paint to get a tournament standard model? or even better?

[Jo]

It all depends on the result you're after of course. I have never played any tournaments but for 10mm models - would the figures presented in the beginning of the post be sufficient for tournaments?

I think you already get good results if you highlight before applying the quickwash. That's what I did on my Orc Warboss in my first post here: http://sg.tacticalwargames.net/forum/index.php?topic=4405.msg32892#msg32892.

It is also possible to add additional highlights after the quickwash if you would want to, something I did a few times in the past. It gives you the necessary depth and contrast in the recesses but brightens the otherwise darker look on the raised areas.

I also used their inks recently, which according to some site gives you the same effect as Devlan Mud (strong tone) or Bahdab Black (dark tone). I did notice however that the strong tone quickwash produces a more brownish effect than the ink, something I really like on my greenskins. I think you can see the quickwash as a somewhat thicker variant of the typical Devlan Mud wash that has a better effect on large surfaces but you have less control on the paint flow because of the viscosity and the longer drying time.

I hope this can help a bit?

Good luck,

Jo

[Lex]

Right I read the pdf on there site and was wondering how you paint to get a tournament standard model? or even better?

In reaction to the reaction of Jo as well.....     I dont realy think there is such a thing as "tournament standard"......   

## RANT MODE ON ##

At the time that I stopped playing Warhammer Fantasy battle tournaments the whole concept of tournament standard armies became corrupted by the (few) "top class players"  that had enough money and time to attend tournaments "all over the world" AND to have their mini´s *gasp*  pro-painted...... allowing them to score more points for the events where the "painting/converting"  of the army was part of the event (iow.  at that time most GW events).

In itself there is no fault in gettin a top paintjob done on (a considerable part of) your force, but IMHO the proof should be in the puddin, and to often I have seen judges ignoring even photographic evidence that the work was bought.

If for any reason paiting is supposed to be part of what makes a tournament "tick"  then there should be time allocated to paint as PART of the event.....     Oh wait ... there is the Golden Whatsummicall its  you say?!  Thru, and places like CMON do a great job in allowing people to show of their skills too.

For me, the aim to play an army at an event would be to have put up an effort to produce properly based, identifiable units on the table in ANY form of paintjob that exceeds "bare silver", "clean white (or grey) or "dusky black".
For me as an organizer of events (of which I have done some over the last 15 years), I would applaud those like Jo and Dave and all others that are showing of GREAT brushmanship in this forum, and try to make sure that there is some prize I CAN provide to the "best painted army".

## RANT MODE OFF ##

[Vermis]

Shhhoot.  That's lookin' good.

I have to admit I never spared much thought for the army painter method, but on these 10mm orcs it looks great.
Might be time to break out that pot of Coat D'arms super shader.  How do think it compares?

[Jo]

Might be time to break out that pot of Coat D'arms super shader.  How do think it compares?

I wouldn't know honestly. I did do a paint check last week to check the Quickwash against the Army Painter Dark Ink, which according to some sources should be almost identical to Devlan Mud. You can find a (not so good) picture below.


To the left you have the standard wash, on the right the quickwash. It is not so clear on the photograph but the quickwash produces a much warmer/brownish result than the regular wash. In the deep recesses the effect is about the same. The quickwash also darkens the miniature a bit but not quite as much as the regular wash.

So after these tests I am convinced that the remaining part of by O&G army (apart from the trolls) will be shaded using the Quickwash...

Let me know how it turns out.

Kind regards,

Jo

[mlkr]

I got inspired to use this method for my OnG-army so I am giving it a go! Used AP for a few Blood Bowl-teams with good results so this should work out nicely ^_^

9 units of orcs got primed with greenskin primer from AP and then a drybrush with Livery Green Game Colour from Vallejo. I am hoping for a bit of extra contrast with this.

Will go for Greys, Browns & metallics as basecolours. Not sure what I should use as the main colour for the army though...

Red is always nice but I am thinking maybe a nice blue?

[jchaos79]

That is a great green tide!

[Jo]

Will go for Greys, Browns & metallics as basecolours. Not sure what I should use as the main colour for the army though...

Red is always nice but I am thinking maybe a nice blue?

I used skeleton bone or dheneb stone as a base for quite some clothing etc as it is very neutral. Then I added small details of a different color on the different units using red, dark grey (charadon grey) and brown colors. These details are often limited to the shirt of the middle orc, banner color, helmet of important figures etc. This gives me a uniform green-brown look yet provides sufficient distinction between units so I don't remove the wrong stand.

If you want to use the army painter method then I would not go for the blue though. You want a brownish wash for the Orc skin. This looks great on brownish, greenish and reddish colors but will not be good on blue or white for example.

For my night goblins I used charadon grey as a base with a lighter drybrush to add more depth. There the squish details are painted in the same red as in some of the Orc forces. So anyhow you might want to pick colors that are compatible with red.

Jo

[mlkr]

Thank you Jo for further clarifications and tips
When I find time I will continue with basecolours and post a picture of the results...
Will be interesting to see if I can get details like teeth done in 10mm without it looking sloppy :/