[WM] Painting Orcs the fast way (using Army Painter)

[Jo]

If you're in search of a fast way of painting units of Orcs then using the products from The Army Painter might be a good way to speed things up a bit. I only have a few hours per month at the most to get some painting done - but I like to play with good looking figures nonetheless. And that's the kind of gamer The Army Painter is making products for. More info on their products on their website: www.thearmypainter.com.

The image below shows the 3 steps I use to paint my Orc units. As you can see there is quite some contrast in the finished stand with only a minimum of effort.


Step 1: Undercoat + drybrush:
I use the Greenskin coloured primer to undercoat the miniatures. I have the habit of glueing one strip to the stand and the other one on a piece of cardboard, three stands next to each other. After the paint has dried (which only takes a few minutes) I drybrush the stands with goblin green. This immediately provides an additional highlight to the skin and it helps in seeing where the details are for non-skin parts.

Step 2: Base colors:
Then I just apply the base colours as displayed in the picture. Just flat colors, nothing fancy. I also take quite bright colors since the quckwash will darken the miniature quite a lot. Here I used chainmail for the metal parts, bleached bone for clothes, snakebite leather for wood, skull white for teeth and smaller bits and charadon granite for the really dark areas.

Step 3: Quickwash & varnish:
The third step is where the magic happens. With a brush I apply the quickwash (strong tone for O&G) and let the figures dry for at least 24 hrs. After they have dried just spray a layer of matt varnish (I use The Army Painter varnish here is well) over the model and you're done painting.

Just finish the base and the stand is ready for the tabletop.

You can of course use this technique for other units as well, as shown in the pictures below (sorry for the not so sharp photographs).





The chariots and board riders were base coated fur brown, the spider riders and the wolves were base coated bleached bone. The goblins were basecoated black but I painted Charadon Granite on them using an airbrush, only spraying top-down. The skin is only a single layer of goblin green, no other highlighting was used.

I hope this can help somebody on this forum to turn their mountain of lead into a real O&G army without too much fuss. 

Cheers,

Jo

[Guthwine]

Thats really simple and impressive! Looks like a great tool for 10mm, thanks for sharing!

[jchaos79]

That is a really good new. Never seen a so good effect of quickwash in 10mm. I should give it a try!!

Thanks for sharing +1

[David Wasilewski]

As the proud owner of a very large painted Warmaster O+G myself, I salute you.
I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.

Your figures are looking good!

Dave

[Jimmy Zimms]

As the proud owner of a very large painted Warmaster O+G myself, I salute you.
I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.

Your figures are looking good!

Dave

I am actually assuming, considering the size, that he used the quickshade as a brush on wash. That stuff is like devlan mud on steroids.

[Jo]

I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.

I am thinking about using Devlan Mud instead of the quickwash myself. Can you compare the results of the two 'washes'?

Thanks for the input,

Jo

[Jimmy Zimms]

One is a wash, the other is a thinned colored lacquer.

[David Wasilewski]

Devlan mud is less dark and provides less contrast than army dip. I paint devlan Mud on with a brush as the last stage for most of my warmaster collection.

The only Warmaster army I had considered army dip for would be Khemri. Build, spray white, paint vivid primary colours for detail and then army dip and base. I would do a 'test pilot stand' though before doing the lot.

Dave

[Jo]

Thanks for the input. I have a few figures prepared that only need a wash but I have spent too much time on them to simply dip them, I'm going to try with the regular washes. I guess I can still dip them afterwards or add additional layers of wash to get more contrast.

I just ordered Army Painter Ink Washes, which should have the same colour as the quickwash but are thinner. According to some web site they have the tint as devlan mud (strong shade) and badab black (dark shade). I really prefer these dropper bottles over GWs pots, especially for regular paints.

Jo

[Jimmy Zimms]

Thanks for the input. I have a few figures prepared that only need a wash but I have spent too much time on them to simply dip them, I'm going to try with the regular washes. I guess I can still dip them afterwards or add additional layers of wash to get more contrast.

I just ordered Army Painter Ink Washes, which should have the same colour as the quickwash but are thinner. According to some web site they have the tint as devlan mud (strong shade) and badab black (dark shade). I really prefer these dropper bottles over GWs pots, especially for regular paints.

Jo

Let me know how those work out. I've heard that they make fantastic replacements.

[Mr Grey]

was wondering how you actually dip any help?

[Dave]

Dunk the model in the can, literally. When you take it out shake off the extra stuff (very messy). I've seen a couple of videos where people stick the model on the end of a power drill and spin it to save their elbow from all the shaking.

[Mr Grey]

dip into what?

[Dave]

A thin paint/lacquer/stain. The Army Painter stuff is thinner Minwax.

[Mr Grey]

right checked there site and i'm quite lost could i have a link or something?