[WM] Dark Elf army

[jchaos79]

just notice you did not take horse cavalry... is it not worth in a dark elf army?

never play with/against dark elves...

[calmacil]

Thanks azrael, i'm looking forward to finishing the army at last. 

just notice you did not take horse cavalry... is it not worth in a dark elf army?

never play with/against dark elves...

Do you mean dark rider units? yes i've got some, i have two units of those. The dark riders are missile cavalry, within 15cm they get 2 shots per base.

I've tried them in 2/3 games with dark elves so far. They've been dissapointing in both, i never got into a good position where i could unleash 12 short range missile attacks. I'll keep trying them out though, hard to judge them from so few games.


Finished another unit of Cold One Knights, just about to add sand to the base. Can't finish my 9th (last) unit of Cold Ones until i send them back, next up is my final unit of spearmen.  ... might take my time with that last unit

[calmacil]

This my last unit of spearmen finshed, horaayyy ....that is unless our group gets ambitious and starts playing 5k games  (i wish they would, but it's very difficult to get them playing bigger games)



I just need to finish one unit of Cold One Knights for my 3k Dark Elf army. No rush for that.

A possible list i'm thinking of for 3k is....

General (sceptre of sov)
Sorceress
Sorceress
Hero (Manticore, sword of Might)
Hero
Hero

6 units Spearmen
3 units Crossbowmen
2 units Witch Elves
1 War Hydra
2 units Harpies
3 units Bolt Throwers
9 units Cold One Knights

26 units

It's unfortunate, but i feel that the Hydra is the weakest link in my army. I love the model, i'm determined to use him, so that's why he's in.
...and i have a few alternative lists
such as... drop the manticore and hydra, then add cauldron, wand power and 2 units of dark riders (which is 27 units)

[Lex]

love the colourscheme and the paintwork overall !!     

Now to set up a game huh ......

[calmacil]

love the colourscheme and the paintwork overall !!     

Now to set up a game huh ......

Thanks 

I've had 4 games with my Dark Elves. I like them, prefer them to my empire and Orc armies. Love the Command 10 from my general

[azrael71]

Cmon, 3k is only the start
How about a full army shot?

[David Wasilewski]

Yeah, 3k is for girls (goad, goad).

Only joking - this is an excellent army, if a bit "cavalry heavy" in my opinion. I would lose a couple of units of cold ones and take some extra crossbowmen myself?

I suppose it depends on how much terrain your table normally has on it. We customarily play with a third of the table covered in terrain so as to prevent the need to max out on heavy cavalry to be competitive.

Dave

[calmacil]

Yeah will do an army shot later today azrael 

a bit "cavalry heavy" in my opinion. I would lose a couple of units of cold ones and take some extra crossbowmen myself?

I suppose it depends on how much terrain your table normally has on it. We customarily play with a third of the table covered in terrain so as to prevent the need to max out on heavy cavalry to be competitive.

Dave

Yes it is a bit cavalry heavy. It's more of a reaction to my opponents. My bretonnian opponent often takes x8 heavy cavalry for 2000 pnt games, and x12 heavy cavalry for 3k games. Easily outnumbering me. Maybe more hills are the answer

I was thinking we need more terrain on the table. So roughly how many pieces of terrain is 1/3 of the table?

[Lex]

. Maybe more hills are the answer

I was thinking we need more terrain on the table. So roughly how many pieces of terrain is 1/3 of the table?

That will depend on the pieces, and how you play them.......

Each piece has a "footprint"  which will in most cases be slightly larger then the actual size of the feature. Each piece also has a function  or combination of functions, and you will want to take those into consideration too  (I guess I realy should finish the article I started on this before Steve was taken from us). In short;

Make sure that you have several largish pieces that block LOS (here we generaly play that LOS in a built up area (a determined area with one or more "man"  made structures also counts as blocking LOS but LOS out of, into and inside it is set to 4cm (compared to the 2 in woods etc)

Make sure you have a good mix of movement blocking and/or movement directing pieces. These can be a LOT of smaller lineair ones in any combination with bigger things like (cliffed) hills etc. Note that a "village"  (built up area) blocks movement too for some tropptypes ! so with bigger built-up areas, consider running a road through them to allow eg. cavalry to move though them in line ........

Assuming you play on a 120x180 table, your terrain should cover a 120x60 area.
Hills, water features, swamp etc have their base size as-is
Woods and built-up areas have a footprint that should allow for 8-10 cm surrounding the actual piece
Lineair obstacles have a footprint that is rougly 3x their base width (so a 12cm section of wall on a 2cm base would have a basesize that is roughly 6x12

Does this help ?

[David Wasilewski]

The other way to nerf cavalry is to play with 'capture the objective' type victory condition games. Cavalry cannot enter terrain so cannot capture it!

Of course you still need to play with plenty of terrain though, otherwise the infantry will probably be ridden down in the open before it can reach/occupy said objective!

Dave

[calmacil]

Yes that helps Lex, thank you. I'll take the footprint into consideration next time.

We have a lot of objective based games, and villages are often the objective. I don't max out with cold ones in my 2k games, i use those points for more xbows and spears.


Just done an army shot. Here are the dark elves waiting to bring back more slaves for their dark towers;



Also, thought i'd share this. My whole 3,000 point army fits into a box file.
I've basically done the opposite to how i started off. I've super glued the box file with magnet strips (cheap off ebay) then glued steel paper on all the bases. I'm loving that my whole army takes up roughly A4 size for storage 

[azrael71]

Great work there.
It is always nice to see a fully finished and boxed army
As for magnetic basing I have been using this company http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250690426451?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I managed to get the rolls at £30 for 6x 1m rolls including postage.
I use it to line the boxes and on the model bases, mated together it is strong enough to suspend a chaos dragon upside down

In the file boxes if there is not enough room, I have added a second level made of foamcore supported on foam struts there by cutting down my 40 boxes to around 20 room for some more armies now

[calmacil]

As for magnetic basing I have been using this company http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250690426451?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

So, just to make sure..... that's the steel paper isn't it? ... is that the same stuff i've been sticking to the base of my figures?
This>>>>

because i might need some more 




Also, i thought i'd share this. I bought this objective marker off ebay. At first i thought it was too modern for Warmaster, but the Empire have clocks. I think they even have a clockwork horse in warhammer.
It's classed as 15mm, but i've compaired it to my 10mm building and i think it fits perfectly. I've just started drybrushing some of the stone work.



For scale comparison, a stand of dark elf spearmen

[calmacil]

Thought i'd finish my final Cold One Knights unit. Finished this yesterday





I also made some 10mm scale barrows for a scenario we did. Lots of undead shambling from their resting place 
(i put the black orcs in shot for scale)




And here's my dark elf dragon rider. Not finished him yet, i think i'm going to paint his skin black instead of dark green

[Stormwind]

Lovely work! What is the provenance of that objective marker?  I'd love to see some more ruins like that on a battlefield.